Shoemaking process



April 18, 1967 J. PUJOL 3,314,092

SHOEMAKING PROCESS Filed July 5, 1963 2 Sheets-Sheet FlG. l

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INVENTOR. JAIME PUJOL gilyw r/ww ATTORNEYS April 18, 1967 I J. PUJOL3,314,092

SHOEMAKING PROCESS Filed July 1963 2 Sheets-Sheet z FIG. 6

BY m 4. FIG.IO $817M ATTOR NEYS United States Patent 3,314,092SHOEMAKING PROCESS Jaime Pujol, 2-B Grove Road, Kingston, Jamaica FiledJuly 3, 1963, Ser. No. 292,648 Claims. (Cl. 12-142) This inventioncomprises a new and improved process useful in the manufacture of mens,womens and childrens shoes of cushion type. It has the advantage ofproducing shoes of light weight and strong construction which at thesame time follow accurately the fine lines of the last upon which theyare made. The shoes are flexible and present a smooth and attractiveinside finish. The process may be carried out easily and convenientlywithout special apparatus and it facilitates many of the regularshoemaking operations. The invention also includes Within its scope anovel insole uriit which includes the sock lining as one ply and also anenclosed cushion ply which is arranged to be exposed in the lasted shoebottom.

These and other features and advantages of the invention will be bestunderstood and appreciated from the following description of a preferredmanner of carrying it out as shown in the accompanying drawings inwhich:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of one of the insole plies,

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the sock lining ply of the insole unit to whichis attached the cushion ply,

FIG. 3 is an edge view corresponding to FIG. 2,

FIG. 4 is a plan view of the assembled insole and sock lining plies,

FIG. 5 is a view in perspective of the closed and lined pp FIG. 6 is aview suggesting the step of stitching together the lining of the upperand the insole unit,

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary view showing the gauge used in this operation,

FIG. 8 is a plan view showing the insole unit as stitched to the liningflange of the upper,

FIG. 9 is a view in perspective showing the lasted shoe, and

FIG. 10 is a cross sectional view of the lasted shoe.

In preparing the insole unit a blank 10 of the proper shape is first cutfrom still fiberboard or insole board and in this blank is defined aremovable area 12 by means of slits which hold it in semi-detachedcondition. The area 12 occupies generally the metatarsal portion of thesole blank and etxends rearwardly to the heel breast line. Transverseslits 13 are formed in the edge of the blank at the toe portion andslits 14 at substantially the heel breast line.

The sock lining ply 15 of the insole unit is shown in FIG. 2. This plyis of upper leather or other sock lining material and corresponds incontour to the insole blank 10. Secured to its inner face is a cushionply of foam rubber or the like having a forepart 16 and a heel seatportion 17. This ply is also provided with transverse slits 18 at thetoe end and slits 19 at the heel seat end. The slits 18 and 19 arelocated in the vicinity of the slits 13 and 1-4 of the insole but theydo not register so that no bunch is formed in the composite insole unitwhen the flange of the lining is subsequently drawn inwardly through theslits.

The closed upper 21 as shown in FIG. 5 is provided with a fabric lining22 and this lining is provided at both sides with flanged extensions 23.The lining is cemented to the upper 21 except in the area of the flanges23. The flanges are provided with transverse slits 24 and 25 inlocations corresponding approximately to the transverse slits alreadydescribed in the insole unit.

The upper and insole units are assembled and united through the forepartoff the last as suggested in FIGS. 6 and 7, that is to say, the flanges23 of the lining are overlapped by the margin of the insole unit andstitched together by a line of stitching 26 on each side of the upper.This operation is facilitated by a gauge 30 having a slot 31 in which isreceived the edge of the insole unit and a notch 32 in which is receivedthe edge of the flange 23 of the upper. It will be understood that theinsole unit on account of its stiff ply 10 presents a solid and welldefined gauging edge. The two components of the shoe are thus broughtaccurately into registration and united by the stitch line 26 as theassembled parts are drawn through the gauge 30. The inner edge of thelining is guided into conformity with the bulge in the sock liningcaused by the enclosed cushion ply 16-17.

At the conclusion of the stitching operation the ends of the liningflanges 23 are brought up edgewise through the transverse slits of theinsole unit and cemented to the flat underlying face of the ply 10 asshown in FIG. 8.

When the plies 10 and 15 of the insole unit are united by cementing themtogether the enclosed cushion ply 16- 17 causes the sock lining ply 15to follow the contour of the cushion in the area marked 15' in FIG. 4.The marginal portions of the ply 15 are skived or roughened in areas '20to facilitate a cement bond between them and the flanges 23 of thelining.

As shown in FIG. 6, the flanges 23 are laid fiatwi'se just within theskived margins 20 of the insole, cemented in place and secured by thestitch line 26 which runs close to the contour of the bulge 15' of theinsole. The flanges 23 of the lining are then folded outwardly, oneafter the other, and cemented to the skived margins 20* of the insole,thus making a close edge jointur e with the outer edge of the insole andproducing a rolled edge in the lining inside the shoe. The last may beslipped into the shoe at this stage or immediately after the liningextensions are folded and cemented to the insole unit.

The last 33 is shown in the upper as indicated in FIG. 9 thus presentingthe assembled parts of the shoe in con- Venient position for the side,toe and heel lasting operations. The lasting margin 27 of the upper isshown as cement-lasted to the insole. The removable area 12 of theinsole blank 10 is now removed thus making space for the cushion ply 16which has been enclosed in the sock lining and increasing theflexibility of the insole as a whole by removing a substantial area ofthe stiff material of this ply. The shoe may now be completed by layingand attaching an outsole 28. It is desirable to leave the area 12 inplace until the last has been inserted as it gives increased stabilityto the upper, but if desired that area may be removed at any earlierstage of the process.

Having thus disclosed my invention and described in detail anillustrative embodiment thereof, I claim as new and desire to secure byLetters Patent:

1. The shoemaking process comprising the steps of making a line ofspaced slits in an insole blank to define a removable area, in thecentral portion thereof laminating the slitted blank with a sock lininghaving a cushion ply and thus enclosing the cushion ply, lasting anupper to the margin of the insole blank, and after the lasting stepremoving the defined area from the insole to expose the enclosed cushionply.

2. The shoemaking process comprising the steps of marking an insoleblank to define a removable area in the central portion thereof,laminating the marked blank with a sock lining having a cushion plyenclosed by the blank, providing a lined upper having a central marginalflange to the lining thereof, sewing to the laminated insole themarginal lining flange of said upper, inserting a last, lasting theupper, and then after the lasting step bulge outwardly and removing thedefined area from the insole blank to expose the enclosed cushion ply.

3. The shoemaking process as defined in claim 2 and comprising the stepsof assembling oil? the last an upper having a marginally flanged liningwith an insole unit, overlapping the flange of the lining upon the saidunit while leaving the margin of the upper free, sewing the flange ofthe lining to the inner face of the unit in conformity to the bulge ofthe cushion ply, inserting a last, and lasting the margin of the upperto the outer face of the unit. 7

4. The shoemaking process comprising the steps of assembling an upperhaving a lining with a marginal extension flange and an insole unithaving spaced marginal transverse slits therein, overlapping the flangeof the lining with the unit between said transverse slits and foldingthe ends of the lining flange through said transverse slits, stitchingthe overlapped portion of the lining flange to the unit, inserting alast, and lasting the sides of the upper to the exposed face of theinsole unit.

5. The shoemaking process defined in claim 4, further characterized bythe steps of slitting one ply of the insole unit to define a removablearea in the cental portion thereof prior to assembly with the lining,removing said area after the lasting operation and filling the cavitythus provided with cushion material.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS JORDAN FRANKLIN,Primary Examiner.

F. I. COHEN, Examiner.

A. R. GUEST, Assistant Examiner.

1. THE SHOEMAKING PROCESS COMPRISING THE STEPS OF MAKING A LINE OFSPACED SLITS IN AN INSOLE BLANK TO DEFINE A REMOVABLE AREA, IN THECENTRAL PORTION THEREOF LAMINATING THE SLITTED BLANK WITH A SOCK LININGHAVING A CUSHION PLY AND THUS ENCLOSING THE CUSHION PLY, LASTING ANUPPER TO THE MARGIN OF THE INSOLE BLANK, AND AFTER THE LASTING STEPREMOVING THE DEFINED AREA FROM THE INSOLE TO EXPOSE THE ENCLOSED CUSHIONPLY.